We spent two weeks touring Namibia and Botswana in October 2024.
Our 4 x 4 pickup
We had previously spent three weeks touring Namibia in a rented Toyota Hilux pickup and staying in hotels along the way. As this had worked previously we opted to do it again but visiting new places. This time we did not visit any town but stayed in lodges in a variety of environments.
We flew Heathrow, Frankfurt,Johannesburg and Windhoek so spent our first night in Windhoek before picking up our vehicle, maps and travel guide the following morning. We also collected a cool box and a local phone for use in emergencies as we were travelling alone.
Our first stop was Waterburg Plateau but our overnight stay here was marred by torrential rain which was a pity as it looked a great place for hiking.The only wildlife we saw here were rock hyrax, locally known as dassies, I guess most other wildlife had decided to hunker down until the weather improved.
Our self contained lodge with great views
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too wet and cool for this plunge pool
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Waterburg Plateau in better weather
Our next stop was a private lodge just outside the eastern gate into Etosha National Park.
Onguma Forest Camp (https://onguma.com)is a very smart lodge with a restaurant and swimming pool and from here we could either take our own vehicle into the national park or take a guided tour. We did both - a guide knows where the animals are but self driving is just as satisfying. As we visited after the rains had started this meant that the waterholes were empty as animals had more choice as to where to find a drink this meant it was not so easy to spot animals although these giraffes helpfully decided to use a puddle beside the road.
We spent two nights here but on reflection it would have been better to stay at least another day as there is so much to see in Etosha National Park which is four times bigger than South Africa's Kruger National Park.
We spent two nights here but on reflection it would have been better to stay at least another day as there is so much to see in Etosha National Park which is four times bigger than South Africa's Kruger National Park.
Our lodge for two nights
Sitting by the fire waiting for animals to come to the waterhole behind me
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Luxurious accomodation
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Kudu
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young male lion
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After the rains these giraffe had plenty to drink
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Male ostrich
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waterhole at Onguma
The next part of our journey meant heading further north towards the Okavango panhandle and the very upmarket Divava Okavango Resort and Spa (divava.com).
Very fancy accomodation here and a five course dinner menu beside the Kavango River (strictly it is only the Okavango River once in Botswana).
We didn't stay long enough to test the spa and the treatments available, indeed we didn't even get to use the magnificent bath in our lodge.
Very fancy accomodation here and a five course dinner menu beside the Kavango River (strictly it is only the Okavango River once in Botswana).
We didn't stay long enough to test the spa and the treatments available, indeed we didn't even get to use the magnificent bath in our lodge.
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Here at Divava we were able to take a boat to see the nearby Poppa Falls which probably would have been more spectacular if we had visited later in the year after the rains had really got started.
Poppa Falls
The highspot was another boat trip on the river with Japhet our guide, avoiding the unpredictable hippos, seeing a flash of a crocodile but then seeing the carmine bee-eaters which was excellent.
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Our journey next took us in to Botswana but first we had to get through the border post, not actually difficult but time consuming with lots of (pointless?) paperwork to complete. Thank goodness we live in the Shengen Zone back home in Portugal.
We were staying in the Okavango Delta which is an unusual delta in that it does not drain into the sea. Instead the waters from the highlands of neighbouring Angola drain into a vast inland waterway which is filled with animals and birds.
The only way to access Nxamaseri Lodge was by boat and we had to leave our vehicle in a secure compound and travel by Land Cruiser to reach the river. Find our more about this lodge at desertdelta.com
The only way to access Nxamaseri Lodge was by boat and we had to leave our vehicle in a secure compound and travel by Land Cruiser to reach the river. Find our more about this lodge at desertdelta.com
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Lovely accommodation
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A marvellous welcome from the staff at the lodge, I just wish I had kept the video running a bit longer.
This is an all inclusive lodge - obviously we couldn't just nip out to a nearby restaurant. The food and the service was excellent and included in the price were two activities a day and we could choose fishing, a hike to nearby Tsodilo Hills which has ancient cave paintings or taking a river trip in a mokoro - like a dug out canoe. As we are birders we opted for the mokoro.
Fish eagle
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Stone curlew, but in Africa called Thick Knee
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System and a water lily
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This is our guide who called himself System - we understand that this is easier to pronounce than his given name. Not only was he excellent at finding and identifying birds but he was able to show us many uses for water lily stems.
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Sundowner time at Nxamasweri Lodge
We spent two nights at Nxamasweri which was plenty for us as we only wanted to birdwatching and had no interest in in fishing or tracking the hills. A most enjoyable spot.
A farewell from Katie of Nxamasweri Lodge.
Our final stop in Botswana was Grassland Safari Lodge (grasslandsafarilodge.com )
Access was via 70kms of sand road but as we were in a 4 x 4 we didn't expect this to be a problem. However the sand was very deep at times so a 4 wheel drive was essential but the real problem was the 17 farm gates that we needed to go through to reach our destination. It was the hottest part of the day as we went through so Sheila's sandalled feet burned in the very hot sand and each gate was chained in a different way which meant a separate metal puzzle to unlock at each fence. Fortunately when we left two days later it was early one morning when it was much cooler.
Access was via 70kms of sand road but as we were in a 4 x 4 we didn't expect this to be a problem. However the sand was very deep at times so a 4 wheel drive was essential but the real problem was the 17 farm gates that we needed to go through to reach our destination. It was the hottest part of the day as we went through so Sheila's sandalled feet burned in the very hot sand and each gate was chained in a different way which meant a separate metal puzzle to unlock at each fence. Fortunately when we left two days later it was early one morning when it was much cooler.
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Once we arrived at the lodge we were surprised to see rhinos quite so close to the lodge. While not actually tame they clearly very used to being around people.
We took the video below to show just how close we got to these rhino.
Mum and baby
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These yellow billed hornbill picked a fight with their reflections on the car windscreen.
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The owners campaign to ensure the rescue and rehabilitation of lions, leopards and African wild dogs and we had an opportunity to see this. Obviously they are keen to protect the rhino too.
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These hunting dogs were due to be relocated to a private game park.
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These lions are sisters, one more shy than the other. We were told that they are too old now to survive in the bush, so they will probably stay here.
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This lodge is located in an area occupied by the San bushmen and we spent a couple of hours learning from them about the skills needed to survive in the bush. The showed us how they search for roots to eat and how they dig up the root, take what they want and then replant it. They also showed us how they make fire by rubbing sticks together. Our guide was Anri who had been brought up at the lodge and was fluent in the San language and could translate for us.
Certainly a unique experience.
Certainly a unique experience.
Gilroy and the bushmen who were very happy for me to take these photos. The ostrich egg was used for storing water.
Grassland was our final stop in Botswana and we next headed to Namibia and another border crossing. This one was bigger with many booths to be visited but no indication as to what order .
Our next two nights were at Kalahari Bush Breaks
(kalaharibushbreaks.net) .
Our next two nights were at Kalahari Bush Breaks
(kalaharibushbreaks.net) .
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Our chalet was bright and airy with a rear veranda where we could watch the comings and goings of the bushbuck.
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Our final overnight stop was close to Windhoek airport where we would return our vehicle and start the long journey home.
We did about 3000 kms on this trip, no problems with the vehicle and the roads were mostly ok. The only mishap was getting a speeding ticket in Botswana but that´s a story for another time.
We did about 3000 kms on this trip, no problems with the vehicle and the roads were mostly ok. The only mishap was getting a speeding ticket in Botswana but that´s a story for another time.
