The Oga Peninsula is not mentioned in the Rough Guide and we chose  to visit as we saw it on the National Geographic map as a place of interest and we were very glad that we did, there is plenty to see there.

Unosaku beach

The coastline is interesting for its rocks formations and at Unosaki Beach when the tide is out you can see a wide expanse  rock floor just under the water.

Can you see Godzilla?

Along the coast we had noticed a sign to Goshado, another shrine. We had not read read the bumf about this place beforehand, and so when we saw the rough stone steps we assumed that it would only be a short  but manageable climb that we normally associate with shrines in Japan. Wrong. The steps went on more or less forever, and were extremely rough in places. It didn't help that Sheila was in flip-flops and Gilroy was in Crocs - hardly sensible shoes for light mountaineering. When we read the leaflet later it failed to say that these steps were made from randomly placed rocks which were designed to break gaijin legs. The shrines at the top made the climb worthwhile but better footwear would have been prudent.

The legend behind the steps concerns some ogres who were terrorising the local villages, stealing crops and girls. The locals offered the ogres a deal - if they built 1000 steps to provide access to the local temple then the ogres could have their pick of the local beauties. The ogres were making good headway when a villager had the bright idea of simulating a cock crowing - the ogres thought it was morning and fled  - leaving 999 steps behind them.
​Having used this steps it seems clear that they have not been repaired since the ogres first built them.

Prayers

More prayers

A Tori gate leads to the shrine

Unsuitable footwear

  From the Namahage Museum we went up the hill a bit more to the very fine Shinzan Shrine and its surrounding massive cedar trees.

ceremonial lantern at Shinzan shrine

Below are some rather interesting signs for the toilets, ladies on the left, gents on the right.

Then it was downhill a bit to a shrine which - despite its small size - holds 10,000 wooden Buddhist statues.

Gary Glitter lookalike?

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Oga Shinzan Folklore Museum

At the Oga Shinzan Folklore Museum  we paid ¥800 each to see a live display of two Namahage visiting a household at new year. This was thoroughly entertaining even if we didn't understand  all of it, with the ugly monsters shouting and stamping and occasionally threatening members of the small audience. We were handed a script in English as we entered so had a rough idea of what was going on but we think that the actors ad-libbed a little more.
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It was great fun and we recommend paying for the more expensive ticket that gives access to the live "show" and also the larger more traditional museum.

A rather more realistic representation was shown elsewhere in the museum - a film of actual Namahage visits to local households which terrified the young children who were dragged screaming from the arms of their parents. People would be prosecuted for that in the UK. Sheila  noted that it was hardly surprising that Japanese kids are so obedient - they have had the crap frightened out of them, and there is the prospect of further torture next year unless there is good behaviour. Sort of First Footing with added violence.

Namahage ceremonies are widespread on Oga, but with slightly different monster costumes. The museum had a fairly complete collection.

You get very close to the action.

In conclusion then, if you are travelling north then visit Oga, theres more to see than listed here, an observatory, onsen and spa hotels.