JAPAN 2023
After the Covid years and the country remaining closed during the Olympic year we were finally able to make another visit to Japan September 2023. Our first visit was back in 2014 so we were really looking forward to a much anticipated return.
Kyushu
We had loved renting from Andrej and his team at JapanCampers but on our two previous visits we had seen a lot of Honshu so we decided to look further afield in Kyushu and found another rental company that had suitable motorhomes.
This time we rented from a Japanese company 3seven77.net(email : [email protected]) which employed a locally based Dutchman, Yap as the company rep for non Japanese. He and his wife had lived in Japan for many years and so was very knowledgable and helpful when he handed the vehicle over.
The vehicle was fine, dinette and a fixed bed, sink fridge and zircon but no toilet or bathroom - and this has been the same on previous trips and wonder if its a cultural thing.
As on our previous trips we stayed at the plentiful michi no eki or road stations. I describe these more fully in the link below.
The vehicle was fine, dinette and a fixed bed, sink fridge and zircon but no toilet or bathroom - and this has been the same on previous trips and wonder if its a cultural thing.
As on our previous trips we stayed at the plentiful michi no eki or road stations. I describe these more fully in the link below.
Japan - a cheaper wayJapan - the cheaper way Check out this page for more practical info.
Our home for a month
The vehicle came with Japanese pillows sleeping mats and sleeping bags but we took our own cotton sheets which made sleeping more comfortable in the hot weather.
Renting a vehicle means learning how to fill it .
Kunimi
On the way to our first michi no eki we stopped a the Munakata-taisa shrine complex and we spent an hour admiring the buildings and gardens (and doing 100 stairway steps in the process) and feeding the ferocious fish in the pond (courtesy of a local man who gave us a cupful of fish food to distribute).
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washing before praying
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The Michi no eki in Kunimi had a big fresh and frozen store with lots of pickles and vinegars/sauces. The restaurant was already closing down when we arrived at about 3pm so we made do with noodles and a pork skewer (a bit tough) from a mobile vendor and a very good ice cream cone afterwards. And then a bottle of the delightfully named Pocari Sweat.
Waiting for the fish market to open with chairs to keep your place.
A typical roadside station
Laundrettes are plentiful but operating the machines can be problematic
Phoenix michi no eki
This place provided some wonderful views of washboard rock formations at the water's edge. As you can see from the photo, it wasn't crowded.
Himeshima Island
We overnighted at Kurumi, a small roadstation but a good start to the day watching a couple of Black Kites flying around and parking themselves nicely for photos.
At Kunimi harbour we boarded the 9.50 ferry to Himeshima Island (rather immodestly described as “Princess” island in the bumf). About ¥2,300 for the pair of us - €15 return - for the 20 minute trip on a rather ancient boat which did very elegant four-wheel drifts to park perfectly at the harbour wall.
In Himeshima we hired a Nissan New Mobility Concept electric car (¥7,000 for the day - about €45) which took “tiny” to new - low - levels. There was just room for Gilroy at the front and not really enough room for Sheila behind. Getting in and out required athletic skills which have well passed. But it did the job of getting us round the island, sometimes at speeds exceeding 50kph - and taking us to some fine sights which - naturally - required steeps steps.
A tiny shrine on a cliff top
Himeshima is famous for large tiger prawns (they raise them in large ponds as well as catch them in season) so we sought guidance from the car hire lady about a good restaurant and had an excellent multi-part meal with panko prawns at the centre (¥3,500 - €22 for two).
We ended our visit to the island with a visit to the onsen. The first step is a good wash (soap and shampoo provided) and then relax in the thermal waters.
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its of beautiful coastal scenery
A Beer Festival
One day en route to some waterfalls that we never quite got to we came across a carpark for the Mukabaki Beer Festival so thought this sounded more promising than a walk up a mountain side. A couple of old geezers there to guide you in, and then a free lift in a minibus down to the local brewery where the festivals was being held. A great atmosphere there - a band playing, lots of beers for sale (Sheila had “Green Babies”, I had an alcohol-free) and there was plenty of choice at lots of food stalls. We had a batch of small fried fish (a bit chubbier than Whitebait), noodles with cabbage, and then some gyozas. The man at the next table spoke some English and gave us some edamame beans.
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Further round there was a barbecue place where you could buy raw food and cook at at your own table. Looked very tempting but we were worried that there would be a long wait so decided against. Instead we bought a T-shirt and some beers from the brewery shop and got the minibus back to the carpark where the old geezer shifted some of the parking tape to let us out.
It is episodes like this - serendipitous delights - which is the reason we like motorhoming in Japan.
Takachiho
Our next stop was the michi no eki at Takachiho where you can hire rowing boats along a picturesque river in the Takachiho Gorge.
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We decided to look along the Takachiho Gorge. We walked down about 150 steps to get close to the river. Amazingly deep and narrow gorge, with many of those smooth semi-circular bits worn out of the sides where trapped boulders have spun when the river is in flood (like Bourke’s Luck in South Africa).
The rock formations along the gorge are outstanding - pillars so perfect they look like they have been cast in concrete, topped by swirling layers of molten rock. And tucked between the walls a narrow river, in part quite still (where we will be rowing), sometimes babbling over rocks so large that the river must be a roaring maelstrom after big storms. And all topped by green - huge trees, bushes, creepers lichens everywhere. Picture postcard scenery.
In the evening we went to the nearby Shinto shrine for a demonstration of dancing based on religious mythology around harvests and a cave where a goddess hid. Lots of chat from the priest (?)/drummer and then four different dances by masked men. The only dance we could easily understand involved a man and women drinking saké and getting amorous. We were given an English-language flyer describing each dance along with our ¥1000 tickets (€6).
The flyer described the dances as “ National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property”. Lovely.
The flyer described the dances as “ National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property”. Lovely.
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Ikitsuki
We headed west to Ikitsuki Island off the west coast. This involved a fine red bridge (like the Golden Gate) from the mainland (i.e. Kyushu Island) to Hirado Island and then another (this time blue) bridge to Ikitsuki.
The MnE is small and quiet, just next to the sea by the bridge.
We decided to explore the rest of Ikitsuki Island, but only just made it out of the MnE before we stopped to look around the harbour area where there were lots of big fishing boats. Sheila spoke - via Google - to a couple of old ladies who were putting flying fish on skewers ready for grilling/smoking, and also spoke to a couple of fellers to ask about what they caught - Horse Mackerel.
The MnE is small and quiet, just next to the sea by the bridge.
We decided to explore the rest of Ikitsuki Island, but only just made it out of the MnE before we stopped to look around the harbour area where there were lots of big fishing boats. Sheila spoke - via Google - to a couple of old ladies who were putting flying fish on skewers ready for grilling/smoking, and also spoke to a couple of fellers to ask about what they caught - Horse Mackerel.
On one ship they were loading up a huge net - 1,000 metres long they said - after finishing a bout of mending. Nobody seemed bothered by us wandering around. we didn't come across too many westerners so we found that ladies like this found us as fascinating as we found them.
Hirado
One we left Ikitsuki we crossed via an impressive red bridge into Hirado a very pretty small town with lots of traditional wooden buildings and unusually, quite a lot of churches but we arrived on a Monday and all the restaurants seemed to be closed but with a bit of help from Tourist Information we ate at a fish restaurant, raw fish, miso soup, something pickled and a bowl of rice and a cup of green tea - €6 a head.
Hirado castle
There was lots of interesting history in Hirado in connection with the first European traders to reach the area. The Dutch set up their first trading post here before moving on to Nagasaki. The castle contained more historical information about local warlords but also these first Europeans which included a British pilot called William Adams upon whom the main character from Shogun is loosely based.
Old Jack Tar cafe
Okawachiyama, the “village of the secret kilns”
Our next stop was Imari Okawachiyama, the “village of the secret kilns” where porcelain was made. The process was so secret that makers built big walls to stop people spying on their methods.
Today it is a twee little place with lots of ceramics shops selling beautiful pots, vases, plates etc at eye-watering prices (one nice - but not very big - vase was going for the equivalent of €4,450). We wandered around for a couple of hours, failed to find an open café, but bought a few small items as gifts.
Today it is a twee little place with lots of ceramics shops selling beautiful pots, vases, plates etc at eye-watering prices (one nice - but not very big - vase was going for the equivalent of €4,450). We wandered around for a couple of hours, failed to find an open café, but bought a few small items as gifts.
The ceramic covered bridge leading into the village
You find koi carp in most villages
Kashima
We headed over the mountains to Kashima. There is a good view over the sea from the upper floor of the michi no eki but not a lot to see except lots of sticks which - we presumed - mark where fishing nets were deployed. in fact it was where seaweed is farmed.
Sheila had seen that there were showers available here though locked but it turns out to be a bit more complicated: at low tide there is a large flat area of mud in which you can indulge in mud-sliding. Equipment - including tobi socks - can be hired and the showers are afterwards available to wash off the mud. We looked again when the tide was low and it was as advertised - lots of flat mud with small white crabs standing guard, mud skippers doing as their name suggests, and Grey Herons and Great Egrets waiting for something to move.
The locals have turned these mudflats into a major tourist attraction, below is an extract from publication explaining the Gatalympics which take place each year.
Sheila had seen that there were showers available here though locked but it turns out to be a bit more complicated: at low tide there is a large flat area of mud in which you can indulge in mud-sliding. Equipment - including tobi socks - can be hired and the showers are afterwards available to wash off the mud. We looked again when the tide was low and it was as advertised - lots of flat mud with small white crabs standing guard, mud skippers doing as their name suggests, and Grey Herons and Great Egrets waiting for something to move.
The locals have turned these mudflats into a major tourist attraction, below is an extract from publication explaining the Gatalympics which take place each year.
We were in time for lunch in the very rustic dining room where we had bowls of noodles (with beef for me, seaweed for Sheila) at ¥1200 the lot - about €8.
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A description I found on line for the Gatalympic.'Often called the craziest sporting event in all of Japan, at around the end of May every year tens of thousands of tourists and locals alike make their way down to Kashima in order to compete. Normal sporting events such as the 25m dash or a cycling race are made all the crazier by mountains of mud. Twenty-five meters may seem like a short distance but it’s difficult to manage when you are waist-deep in mud. The cycling race is also complicated by lack of brakes and the ever-looming possibility of being thrown off into the mud.
There are also unconventional events like surfboard races through the mud, relay races, and an obstacle course, all of which because all the more complex when gallons and gallons of mud is involved.
For those who don’t wish to get dirty, you can go as a spectator and watch all the shenanigans unfold, or if it makes you more comfortable you can watch it from your own homes as the event is usually broadcast on TV every year. Events usually begin around 11 am and end around 3 pm and afterward everyone is invited into the mud for a relaxing dip and to feel the cleansing benefits of the mud.''
There are also unconventional events like surfboard races through the mud, relay races, and an obstacle course, all of which because all the more complex when gallons and gallons of mud is involved.
For those who don’t wish to get dirty, you can go as a spectator and watch all the shenanigans unfold, or if it makes you more comfortable you can watch it from your own homes as the event is usually broadcast on TV every year. Events usually begin around 11 am and end around 3 pm and afterward everyone is invited into the mud for a relaxing dip and to feel the cleansing benefits of the mud.''
Tara
We then headed south a few miles to the MnE at Tara which is famous for the “floating” Tori gates, but it being low tide they were definitely stuck in the ground. And looking a touch worse for wear. While we were there the tide came in very rapidly to provide the correct floating image. Also in Tara we walked down the jetty and a lady offered us what we described as krill - tiny shrimp-like things which were fresh out of the sea and still wriggling. It seemed rude to turn down such an offer so we tried them - twice. as were a bit bland but they were much improved when she mixed some with salt. We never found out what she wanted them for, we didn't have Google translate to hand.
The floating Tori Gate
...at low tide
Tasting krill
Seaweed farming
quaint melon bus stop
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strawberry bus stop
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Beppu
The Umi Jigoku complex of boiling hot springs near Beppu (¥5000 for the pair of us for all seven sites - €32) which were delightfully hot and steamy (including mud, some excellent water lilies and a hot foot bath) and then we paid ¥2000 - €13 - for an hour in a private onsen which had a (very) hot pool and a fabulously freezing cold shower. Felt renewed when we emerged, slightly boiled.
Sakurajima
This was probably one of our favourite michi no eki, not only was the view fantastic but the facilities were excellent too.
From here we were able to take a ferry over to the town Kagoshima, a 15 minute ferry costing about €1 one way.
From here we were able to take a ferry over to the town Kagoshima, a 15 minute ferry costing about €1 one way.
Well equipped facilities and spotlessly clean
This little van was occupied by a couple who slept overnight, with the tailgate open
The ferry to Kagoshima
A shelter for use when there is an eruption
Mount Aso
This is an active volcano and sometimes the crater area is closed off to visitors because of poisonous gases. We were fortunate as there were no restrictions when we visited.
We took a helicopter ride over the caldera
Nagasaki
We could not find a michi no eki near Nagasaki but decided to head there anyway and try our luck and - small miracle - found a big parking lot near the harbour where we can overnight for ¥2,400 a night (€15). No facilities but public toilets close by.
We are parked fairly close to the harbour and the Art Museum so it was only a short walk to the historical expat area up the “Dutch Slope” where late nineteenth century western buildings are preserved (British, Dutch, American). Coming back down again, we passed through the gaudy Chinatown area. Across the harbour we can see the ship-building yards with their giant cranes, a big cruise ship, tugs waiting for a good disaster, and flashy apartment blocks. In the harbour there was also a replica of the Kankō Maru, Japan’s first steamship given by the government of the Netherlands in 1855.
In the evening we walked along the waterfront and had a beer at one of the bars. Very touristy but bright and attractive.
We are parked fairly close to the harbour and the Art Museum so it was only a short walk to the historical expat area up the “Dutch Slope” where late nineteenth century western buildings are preserved (British, Dutch, American). Coming back down again, we passed through the gaudy Chinatown area. Across the harbour we can see the ship-building yards with their giant cranes, a big cruise ship, tugs waiting for a good disaster, and flashy apartment blocks. In the harbour there was also a replica of the Kankō Maru, Japan’s first steamship given by the government of the Netherlands in 1855.
In the evening we walked along the waterfront and had a beer at one of the bars. Very touristy but bright and attractive.
Old European style buildings
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After a bit of light shopping the following morning we had a nasty shock back at the motorhome - it cost ¥7,400 to get out (€47) of the carpark. We had clearly misread the instructions about overnighting but we had had a comfortable night in downtown Nagasaki.
Himawari
We stayed near Shimabara on the west coast. An interesting area because a volcanic eruption in 1993 caused huge damage and the michi no eki has a big hall containing half-buried houses and there is a still a big “no-go” area marked on the map. Behind us is a huge mountain, more menacing now that we know what it is capable of doing, especially as it seemed to be steaming.
Obamachho
The following day we carried on to Obamacho on the east coast, this time with foot on brake as we went all the way down a very bendy road to sea level again. We had an excellent crispy noodle/veg/gyoza lunch at a Ringer Hut restaurant (¥2,000 - €13) and then spent a jolly hour in a coin-op laundrette. We have these mastered now, though we hadn’t realised that for our ¥1,000 (€6) fee it did the drying as well.
There was an onsen close by, and next to it a restaurant with loads of natural steam cookers outside. It seems you buy your raw food inside and then it gets cooked outside. The food includes live fish, crabs, giant sea snails as well as prepared stuff like veg and chicken. We decided come back the following day to sample both the cooking and the onsen.
There was an onsen close by, and next to it a restaurant with loads of natural steam cookers outside. It seems you buy your raw food inside and then it gets cooked outside. The food includes live fish, crabs, giant sea snails as well as prepared stuff like veg and chicken. We decided come back the following day to sample both the cooking and the onsen.
A booth for hire with table and chair with steamer at the rear.
These steamers were attached to a restaurant
Unfortunately it was a very rainy night, and it continued for most of the following day so our return to to Obamacho for the steam-cooking was abandoned.
Instead we went back to the onsen we had found the previous day for another boil wash. We got the parking for free ticket from the receptionist which meant we didn't have to work out how to pay at the ticket machine.
Instead we went back to the onsen we had found the previous day for another boil wash. We got the parking for free ticket from the receptionist which meant we didn't have to work out how to pay at the ticket machine.
While in the area we headed up the mountains to the hot springs at Unzen Jigoku (2,240 feet altitude, having started at sea level). Very impressive, steamy and sulphurous. And - because we could - we ate an egg which had been boiled in the hot spring water. Sheila shared hers with one of the loitering cats. Some have large V-shaped bits cut out of one ear, presumably to indicate that they have been neutered.
This place had an interesting history, at one stage it seemed to b a place for the very wealthy to come and enjoy the hot springs - its still a popular place and there were lots of hotels but it was the photo below that caught our attention.
This place had an interesting history, at one stage it seemed to b a place for the very wealthy to come and enjoy the hot springs - its still a popular place and there were lots of hotels but it was the photo below that caught our attention.
He enjoyed the steamed eggs
The next day we were at the ferry port before 9am and impressed - as always - by the efficiency of the booking/loading process and the fact that we left at exactly the advertised departure time of 9.40 for the one-hour trip to Kumamoto- Despite the recent weather the crossing was fairly smooth, perhaps because the sea here is almost enclosed by land.
Castella cake
A speciality in the Nagasaki area is Castella cake, made with flour sugar and eggs its similar to a sponge cake but in Japan its seen as something more exotic and is packaged beautifully and here its on sale at the ferry. It is believed that the origin of the castella cake is Portugal, what a pity they didn't export the recipe for pastel de nada instead.
leaving Shimabara port
Clean, smart and punctual ferry - no surprise in Japan
Kurume
We got to Karume MnE just in time to join the queue at the Seiyoken restaurant opposite.
Sheila had to go in to get a queue ticket (and answer questions about our seating preferences) but we only waited for about 15 minutes and then had some gyozas to start with and then a noodle dish with wood ears, pork, bamboo shoots (possibly), spring onions, chives, hard boiled egg and seaweed.
The speciality in this part of Japan is a plentiful use of pork broth.
I liked it but Sheila required more flavour, so tried the chilli paste which was very lively. In fact the whole place was very lively and busy, and the whipper-in would often shout something as he came in and get a chorus of responses from the staff preparing the food in front of us. A bit like the staff in “The Chef”. With a couple of cokes it was ¥2,450 in total (€15).
The speciality in this part of Japan is a plentiful use of pork broth.
I liked it but Sheila required more flavour, so tried the chilli paste which was very lively. In fact the whole place was very lively and busy, and the whipper-in would often shout something as he came in and get a chorus of responses from the staff preparing the food in front of us. A bit like the staff in “The Chef”. With a couple of cokes it was ¥2,450 in total (€15).
This michi no eki had a restaurant and a big shop with lots of fresh, frozen and chilled food and packaged stuff that looks interesting. We bought a couple of packets of tea bags and a dried mix for making tonkatsu noodles.
It is located right next to the main road so could be noisy at night. We decided try moving the motorhome to a quieter part later when the crowds have gone as it was then so busy that two uniformed traffic directors (old geezers) were employed to keep drivers and pedestrians in order.
It is located right next to the main road so could be noisy at night. We decided try moving the motorhome to a quieter part later when the crowds have gone as it was then so busy that two uniformed traffic directors (old geezers) were employed to keep drivers and pedestrians in order.
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The following morning there were more older men clearing the area from rubbish - not that there was much - this is Japan after all. |
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We eventually had lunch at the MnE restaurant - cold fried chicken pieces, fried jasmine rice, salad, and soup for Sheila, veg curry and rice and tempura vegetables for me, ¥1,540 the lot (€10).
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As this was our last full day in Japan we found another onsen after lunch, but this one private so together not separate (¥2,300 - €15). VERY hot water. Sheila had to put in a lot of cold to make it manageable. Me limping a bit because I missed a raised curb getting out of the motorhome and turned my ankle over. Swollen and painful, so we are both a bit gimpy after Sheila hurt her leg a while back, and has a dodgy knee as well.
Inside Fukuoka airport
... and so our latest trip came to an end. Kyushu is very different to Honshu, not so many tourists (though quite a few from Korea which is only an hour away) and not so many famous tourist hotspots either but a great place to visit and see a different Japan that most tourists see.
