Introduction
We are, generally, independent travellers preferring to find our own way around countries and cities - often with no great plan in mind and happy to get lost pretty regularly and discovering interesting sites and people along the way. However as Brits it's not possible to do this in Iran right now and so we joined escorted tour subject to what others have decided what we should see and experience.
This also meant that we weren’t motorhoming. It is possible, but if you are British, Canadian or American you will need an official guide. A few years ago we met a young American couple who took their own vehicle through Iran, their guide was pleasant and helpful and they had a splendid time, they found the people helpful and friendly and it was probably a highlight of their trip across Europe and Asia. We never came across a campsite as such and motorhomers would probably stay at hotels and hostels along the way.
We went with a company called Explore and were a party of 12 with our own guide and driver and having completed the trip we can thoroughly recommend this company, we had a great time.
This also meant that we weren’t motorhoming. It is possible, but if you are British, Canadian or American you will need an official guide. A few years ago we met a young American couple who took their own vehicle through Iran, their guide was pleasant and helpful and they had a splendid time, they found the people helpful and friendly and it was probably a highlight of their trip across Europe and Asia. We never came across a campsite as such and motorhomers would probably stay at hotels and hostels along the way.
We went with a company called Explore and were a party of 12 with our own guide and driver and having completed the trip we can thoroughly recommend this company, we had a great time.
Mausoleum of Ayatolah Komeini, Tehran
Tehran
Our early morning flight into Tehran gave us our first view of Tehran traffic - scary. Lots of cars but to ease congestion the government had introduced a system by which even numbered cars were allowed into the city one day and odd numbers on the alternate day. From what we saw it wasn't working.
Our early morning flight into Tehran gave us our first view of Tehran traffic - scary. Lots of cars but to ease congestion the government had introduced a system by which even numbered cars were allowed into the city one day and odd numbers on the alternate day. From what we saw it wasn't working.
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Busy Tehran stress
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The photos below are of the Azadi Monument - Freedom Monument in Tehran.
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Meeting a friendly local
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Imamzadeh Saleh Shrine, Tehran
Where we ladies had to be issued with what looked like bedsheets so that we were more appropriately covered for entry into this shrine.
Where we ladies had to be issued with what looked like bedsheets so that we were more appropriately covered for entry into this shrine.
Tajrish Bazaar,Tehran
The first of several bazaars on this trip, from veggies to carpets, everything was here and, unlike similar places elsewhere in the world, no hassle just greetings of "Welcome to Iran".
The first of several bazaars on this trip, from veggies to carpets, everything was here and, unlike similar places elsewhere in the world, no hassle just greetings of "Welcome to Iran".
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Alamut Castle
This in the valley of the Assassins and while its a beautiful area, there can be no denying that the hard slog up to the castle was barely rewarded once up at the top, it seems to be mostly scaffolding.
The good news for future travellers is that they are building a cable car up to the top.
Another friendly local at a nearby restaurant
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Evidence that we made it to the top.
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The castle is at the top of this rock. Hard slog but beautiful scenery
Not even a fraction of the steps needed to reach the top.
Qaleh Rudkhan
Another castle, this time an Ismaeli one and another gruelling slog (for some our group) up to the castle.
This castle is obviously a local tourist destination as there were restaurants, shops and tea stalls at the base of the hill and at the top there were guys selling home made ice lollies - sour cherry or pomegranate flavours.
Apart from all those steps this was a very pretty spot.
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Ice lolly time
On our way to the Ismaeli castle we stopped at a small town called Fuman which is well known for its tasty biscuits which have a sweet walnut filling. Needless to say, we stopped for a sample or two and most of us bought a packet to keep us fed on our journey.
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Masouleh
This is a very picturesque village built on a hillside and so steep that you find yourself walking on the roof of the property below. Its obviously a "must see" for anyone on holiday in Iran so there were hostels and a few gift shops but generally very low key. There was nothing nicer than a stroll around the village after dark and stopping for a pot of tea at one of the many tea stalls.
We stayed in a village house so that we could enjoy an evening here, rather basic accommodation but it was warm and clean and well worth staying there for the experience.
This is a very picturesque village built on a hillside and so steep that you find yourself walking on the roof of the property below. Its obviously a "must see" for anyone on holiday in Iran so there were hostels and a few gift shops but generally very low key. There was nothing nicer than a stroll around the village after dark and stopping for a pot of tea at one of the many tea stalls.
We stayed in a village house so that we could enjoy an evening here, rather basic accommodation but it was warm and clean and well worth staying there for the experience.
Typical tea house
standing on the roof of the building below
Our accomodation
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Our room had 5 beds for the two of us.
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Masouleh at night
Guilam Rural Heritage Museum
This was located in an area that had suffered from an earthquake a few years ago and as a result a decision was made to move some traditional houses from the area to this open air museum where we were shown around by a local guide. The houses varied to include simple farm dwellings and grander houses that had previously belonged to local bigwigs.
Dotted around the museum were women demonstrating some local skills - weaving and bread making for example.
This was located in an area that had suffered from an earthquake a few years ago and as a result a decision was made to move some traditional houses from the area to this open air museum where we were shown around by a local guide. The houses varied to include simple farm dwellings and grander houses that had previously belonged to local bigwigs.
Dotted around the museum were women demonstrating some local skills - weaving and bread making for example.
Bread making
Traditional house with rice straw roofing
Grain store
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Our guide at the museum
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Tabriz
Tabriz is reputed to have the largest covered bazaar in the world, and we can certainly confirm it is very large and very easy to get lost in.
The shops are grouped together depending on what is being sold, so that there are carpet sections jewellery thoroughfares, household goods etc etc. There is also a caravanserai within the bazaar though now not used to accommodate traders although it looked as though this part was used by wholesalers these days.
Tabriz is reputed to have the largest covered bazaar in the world, and we can certainly confirm it is very large and very easy to get lost in.
The shops are grouped together depending on what is being sold, so that there are carpet sections jewellery thoroughfares, household goods etc etc. There is also a caravanserai within the bazaar though now not used to accommodate traders although it looked as though this part was used by wholesalers these days.
Here in Tabriz bazaar we saw a man who could herd cats... he fed them.
The locals were very friendly
Gilroy meets another friendly local
Sheikh Safi's Mausoleum, Ardabil
A beautiful complex with this lovely blue tiling which is a mosaic rather than the square tiles you would see in Spain for example.
The tomb itself was accessed via seven room which represent the seven stages of Sufi mysticism.
Kandovan
This village has been carved out of the lava flow from the nearby dormant volcano on Mount Sahand - its similar to Cappadocia in Turkey but without the tourists.
Our hotel was in the centre of this village, a charming spot - though an awful lot of steps to our accommodation which comprised living room, bedroom and bathroom with a spa bath.
Gilroy outside our little house
our massive bedroom
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hotel dining room
spa bathroom too
Either his sheep lived with him or there was a stable up here.
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Isfahan
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Domed ceiling, Isfahan
Imam Square, Isfahan
James Mosque Isfahan
Chehel Sutun Palace, Isfahan
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Chehel Sotun Palace, beautiful gardens and fountains and a hall full of paintings and frescos depicting famous scenes from Persian history.
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In the carpet shop - very tempting & they take credit cards.
Shiraz
Despite having named a famous variety of grape there is no wine here anymore - well not legally anyway.
En route we stopped at a caravanserai, this was originally designed for use by travellers and this one caters for travellers too but a little more upmarket than in the past. Its now the Golpayegan Googad Castle Hotel.
Despite having named a famous variety of grape there is no wine here anymore - well not legally anyway.
En route we stopped at a caravanserai, this was originally designed for use by travellers and this one caters for travellers too but a little more upmarket than in the past. Its now the Golpayegan Googad Castle Hotel.
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In the courtyard of the caravanseria
The management were kind enough to let us have a group photo in one of the bedrooms
The Nasir-al-Molk Mosque (below) in Shiraz, more beautiful mosaics and stained glass windows which reflect into the building.
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The citadel in Shiraz has been restored in recent years, a peaceful spot in a busy town. It still has its old hamam too.
Pedestrianised road in Shiraz
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Naranjestan-e-GhavamMuseum, Shiraz
This complex was built in the late 19th century and was once the Governor's Court, now its a museum with shady gardens and water features. Most of the shade is provided by orange trees which must have been introduced by the early Portuguese explorers as "naranja" is Portuguese for orange. In Iran naranjas are the bitter oranges which are not eaten but whose trees decorate roads and gardens, eating oranges are called Portugal.
This complex was built in the late 19th century and was once the Governor's Court, now its a museum with shady gardens and water features. Most of the shade is provided by orange trees which must have been introduced by the early Portuguese explorers as "naranja" is Portuguese for orange. In Iran naranjas are the bitter oranges which are not eaten but whose trees decorate roads and gardens, eating oranges are called Portugal.
As with many palaces in Iran there were a lot of mirrors.
Martin & Meg
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Jools & Susan
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More friendly locals, this time in Qajar regional dress
Yazd
Here we stayed in a beautifully restored caravanserai in the centre of Yazd which is located in semi desert area.
We learned about the sophisticated means of sourcing water from the nearby mountains by the creation of qanats which were underground water sources hacked out of the mountains and providing water to the town and the farms. Amazing technology ... and two thousand years old.
Here we stayed in a beautifully restored caravanserai in the centre of Yazd which is located in semi desert area.
We learned about the sophisticated means of sourcing water from the nearby mountains by the creation of qanats which were underground water sources hacked out of the mountains and providing water to the town and the farms. Amazing technology ... and two thousand years old.
The Dad Hotel, Yazd
In Yazd we were fortunate to be able to visit a Zurkhaneh which is a traditional gym where guys work out in a traditional manner with indian clubs amongst other paraphernalia This was one was located in a former water reservoir in the city centre so not only was the exercise pretty amazing but the building was very interesting too.
Persepolis
A highlight of any trip to Iran is Persepolis founded by Darius in 512BC and destroyed by Alexander the Great.
As large parts were made of wood there is not a great deal left but still enough to appreciate what a spectacular place it once was.
A highlight of any trip to Iran is Persepolis founded by Darius in 512BC and destroyed by Alexander the Great.
As large parts were made of wood there is not a great deal left but still enough to appreciate what a spectacular place it once was.
Towers of Silence, Yazd
These are the places where the Zoroastrians placed their dead for the vultures to consume. This religion believed that there were four essential elements - the earth, water, fire and air so chose not to bury their dead as it would pollute a sacred element to life.This practice no longer exists and instead Zoroastrians bury their dead in a cemetery but in concrete graves so as to avoid contamination .
These are the places where the Zoroastrians placed their dead for the vultures to consume. This religion believed that there were four essential elements - the earth, water, fire and air so chose not to bury their dead as it would pollute a sacred element to life.This practice no longer exists and instead Zoroastrians bury their dead in a cemetery but in concrete graves so as to avoid contamination .
Another lot of steps..
Yazd - a city of the old and the new
Bagh-e Dolat Abad,Yazd
Lovely gardens and fountains but here there is a 33metre wind tower - which is two thousand year old air conditioning - and it works.
Lovely gardens and fountains but here there is a 33metre wind tower - which is two thousand year old air conditioning - and it works.
33m wind tower
Our guide demonstrates how a wind tower works
Conclusions
Before we left on this trip many people asked why, others begged us to keep safe, others though that it was altogether too dangerous. How wrong they all were, though it was dangerous at times as I shall explain later.
Firstly, the people - all very friendly, many speak English too. We were often stopped and asked where we had some from, always people would say "Welcome to Iran". Remember that, as with many countries around the world, you need to distinguish the general population from the government and Iran is no exception. In restaurants people would go out of their way to help us choose food and explain how specialities should be eaten. We found ourselves the subject of innumerable selfies with people who approached upon the street.
It's a young country, lots of young people and the girls are very fashionable, bending the headscarf rules as much as they dare. On a Thursday night in Esfahan the streets were full of girls all glammed up, the lads in tight jeans and leather jackets riding around on their motorbikes. It was like a Saturday night in UK but of course no drunks.
The only dangerous thing about Iran that we found was crossing the road as pedestrians seem to rank very low even when there is a green man flashing or a pedestrian crossing. When you want to get to the other side of the road you weave in and out of the passing vehicles.
Visit Iran - you will be pleasantly surprised.
Before we left on this trip many people asked why, others begged us to keep safe, others though that it was altogether too dangerous. How wrong they all were, though it was dangerous at times as I shall explain later.
Firstly, the people - all very friendly, many speak English too. We were often stopped and asked where we had some from, always people would say "Welcome to Iran". Remember that, as with many countries around the world, you need to distinguish the general population from the government and Iran is no exception. In restaurants people would go out of their way to help us choose food and explain how specialities should be eaten. We found ourselves the subject of innumerable selfies with people who approached upon the street.
It's a young country, lots of young people and the girls are very fashionable, bending the headscarf rules as much as they dare. On a Thursday night in Esfahan the streets were full of girls all glammed up, the lads in tight jeans and leather jackets riding around on their motorbikes. It was like a Saturday night in UK but of course no drunks.
The only dangerous thing about Iran that we found was crossing the road as pedestrians seem to rank very low even when there is a green man flashing or a pedestrian crossing. When you want to get to the other side of the road you weave in and out of the passing vehicles.
Visit Iran - you will be pleasantly surprised.
Some of the very friendly Iranians we met on our trip
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